It’s like someone swiped right on my Tinder profile. But instead of a meeting a man, I’m meeting food: incredible food. True to blind date style, I receive an invitation via e-mail to dine at Cotton Row, a fine dining restaurant in Huntsville, AL. After cyber-stalking James Beard-nominated chef James Boyce, the proprietor, I know this night will be very memorable.
A classically trained chef, James Boyce is a New Yorker who began his career at LeCirque training under Daniel Boulud. After his graduation from Culinary Institute of Arts, Chef Boyce moved west serving stints at The Phoenician, Palace Court and Loew’s Coronado Bay Resort before settling in Huntsville.
No one could have orchestrated such a beautiful evening, as I join several other bloggers, strolling across Big Springs park from our hotel to Cotton Row, a three-story Georgian Renaissance-style building that serves American cuisine with a focus on locally sourced food.
Our dinner party is held in the loft, usually reserved for private parties. Chef Boyce’s affable personality adds to the lightness of the evening. We’re seated, given our choice of wines, then the culinary fun begins.
Chef gathered all the ingredients needed and prepares our dish at table side, using a portable cook top and a well-seasoned cast iron skillet. While cooking for our small gathering, he tells us about the restoration of the beautiful structure that houses Cotton Row, which opened in 2008. The building was erected in 1821 by a self-trained architect and Huntsville native George Steele. The bricks were Hungarian. The countertop on which we eat is hewn from Alabama limestone and the floor is a wormy oak. All around us are the trappings of aged wood, stone, and burnished metals, producing an essence of Old World meets New South.
There’s no sweating, cursing, screaming chef in this kitchen. It’s obvious after chatting just moments, that Chef Boyce values family and friends. He treats us like long-time friends, telling us about the move from California with his wife and children to relocate to Huntsville. He talks about the relationships he has developed with local suppliers, and it’s obvious that he’s proud of their collaboration.
Chef begins our meal with a taste of both land and sea, offering sliders of Wagyu beef with herbed goat cheese topped off with a cherry tomato half. The buttery-rich chèvre is the perfect complement to the tender and succulent beef patty. They are so yummy that more than one slides into my tummy.
For the seafood appetizer, a dash of Cathead Vodka is splashed in the bowl of a champagne glass, followed by chunks of fresh Gulf shrimp, Cara Cara oranges, with a sliver of cucumber radish and salmon caviar. A leaf of endive does double duty garnishing the composition and acting as an edible utensil. There’s an incredible pop of freshness and sharpness when the tart of the citrus melds with the radish.
By this time, my mouth is watering for more. I can’t imagine what else lies ahead. However, as the infomercial men on TV say, “But wait, there’s more!”
Chef begins cutting corn off the cob, which he uses to mix up a sweet relish. The relish provides a bed for a giant scallop, which is sautéed in whole butter, then topped with black spring truffles.
When you think the meal can’t get any better, Chef presents us with a beautifully roasted quail, stuffed with Andouille sausage and crawfish, served with an apple jus, made from the roasted wings, apples and Madeira wine. The quail is decadently juicy, with a piquant taste of the sausage that lingers on the palate. Creamy stone ground grits and a Southern slaw composed of celery and fennel tops, endive and chopped parsley round out the course.
Who can end a meal like this without a spectacular dessert? With very little room to spare, we enjoy a light, but palate-pleasing pear tart with a frangipani filling, topped with vanilla ice cream and drizzled with a bourbon caramel sauce.
Chef generously opens up his entire restaurant, allowing us to tour the basement wine cellar (housing over 600 bottles of wine), the main restaurant and both the north and south areas of the loft. There is such a relaxed atmosphere throughout. On this late spring evening, diners are taking advantage of the beautiful weather, opting for the outdoor dining. Even though my meal has come to an end, I’m hesitant to leave. I long to soak up more of this serene setting. So yes, I can highly recommend Cotton Row. And unlike a bad Tinder date, I didn’t have to hail a Uber, pronto!
For more information about Cotton Row Restaurant or any of Chef Boyce’s restaurants, go to cottonrowrestaurant.com, or call them at (256) 382-9500. The restaurant is located at 100 South Side Square, Huntsville, AL, 35801.
Mark your calendars for Huntsville Restaurant Week, which will be held August 11 through 22, 2017. For more information, contact pam@huntsville.org.
Note: While I was a guest for this wonderful evening, the opinions are my own.
I sometimes become obsessed with an activity. It’s like a worm, crawling around, squirming into each crook of my brain, begging to be plucked out. Thus it was with kayaking. My first experience was in Puerto Rico on a moonlit night to the bioluminescent bay in Vieques. It was fun, strenuous and very stimulating. It was just enough of a taste that I knew I wanted to do it again.
When I ran across an article from a regional travel magazine about a kayak trip to a bat cave, I knew it was an adventure I had to experience. Don’t lie to me or yourself. Admit it. You’ve always secretly longed to utter “To the bat cave…” in your raspiest crime-fighting voice.
And so it was that I left the dusty hills of home to traverse the state for my adventure. It was a sticky-hot, humid day when I headed toward the bountiful mountainous range of North Alabama. The farmers had already mown their fields and their large, circular bales of hay dotted the rolling landscape. It was a holiday weekend, so traffic along the two-lane road was light, affording the opportunity to enjoy the rural scenery to Guntersville, AL.
Phil Walton, owner of Unphiltered Kayaking, leads group tours, gives lessons on the sport, and offers invaluable water safety lessons. Walton is a professional instructor, recognized by the American Canoe Association and certified by the American Red Cross in CPR and First Aid. Phil’s aim, according to his web site, is to “get you your family and friends out on the water to enjoy the beauty the region has to offer.” He’s a gregarious character, always ready for a laugh, but extremely serious about water safety.
Our small group gathered at Honeycomb Landing on Guntersville Lake. Phil readied the kayaks, while his wife Cyndi coached me on the basic skills I needed. We left the shore around 5:00 pm. The blazing sun was beginning to fade, its reflections skipping and dancing across the water. It was a shaky onset for me, taking time to find my rhythm. But Cyndi gently coaxed me, teaching me how to find my flow.
“Imagine there’s a monkey sitting on the tip of the kayak and then punch him,” she urged as she smoothly placed her paddle into the water propelling her watercraft gracefully forward (seemingly without breaking a sweat). By comparison, I paddled in circles like a one-legged duck, trying to get acclimated to the water. I was flaming hot, drenched in sweat, making little progress moving onward. My strokes were choppy and I often set my paddle in the water, bringing it out covered with vegetation and splashing water all over myself. But Cyndi patiently glided alongside me, helping me coordinate my timing and strokes for maximizing my energy. Meanwhile, Phil offered interesting facts about Guntersville Lake and the bat cave.
We had ample time to reach our destination before dusk, when the bats would exit their cave. I’m not going to lie. I’m an older woman, in good health and I work out regularly. But this trip was challenging for me. Because it was a holiday weekend, watercraft dotted and dashed across the lake water. Their passing created an aftermath of rippling wakes and causing more resistance in my paddling. Perhaps it was the heat; or maybe just wishful thinking, but I envisioned a handsome man, all buff and tan, on a Jet Ski coming up beside me, tossing me a rope and offering me a tow back to shore. No, that didn’t happen.
We reached the cave, along with many other boaters. It was a great group of folks, just waiting to experience the wonders of nature. The cave opening is protected by a chain link fence to prevent human disturbance. Any disruption of the bats’ routine can lead to an unnecessary expenditure of energy. This energy loss can affect the entire colony, especially the lactating females.
The gray bat (Myotis grisescens) population in Alabama once flourished, but in recent years has been classified as endangered by U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service. It is protected by the Endangered Species Act since 1976. Reasons for their decline include human disturbance of their habitat, flooding, pesticide use and water pollution. Hambrick Cave, on Guntersville Lake, has the largest summer colony of gray bats. The cave houses females during their maternity roosts. After sunset, they emerge from the cave, swooping down over the water to feed on night-flying insects.
While we waited for the tiny creatures to emerge, I took the opportunity to enjoy the beauty of the lake. We had spotted blue heron earlier and I scanned the sky for an egret and listened to the choir of birds and frogs serenading us. By this time, I had cooled off and enjoyed the gentlest breeze rolling across the surface of the lake, creating a peaceful atmosphere in contrast to the amount of people and boats drifting about.
Suddenly, the serenity was shattered by the flapping of thousands of wings as the tiny mammals swirled up and around, but always missing boats and people, swooping down to snatch an insect in mid-flight. Those of us who had never seen the nightly foray made by the bats sat in our craft with mouths agape, trying to absorb the perfect imperfection that is nature. The show ended too quickly, and the stream of bats slowed to a few stragglers. Phil advised us to wait while the larger boats cleared out, which was a good thing, since I was still stunned by the sheer genius that I had just witnessed.
Darkness was now upon us, which is why amateurs like me need professionals like Phil and Cyndi to guide you on such trips. We wore special headlights and our kayaks had lights attached to them. But it is so easy to get disoriented. I thought, several times, that I was close to the shore, after hearing shouts from a nearby cabin. But, alas, I was still about a mile out. Cyndi was still coaching me, heading up the front of our group, while Phil kept behind and watched over us.
By the time I felt the kayak drag through the milfoil, hydrilla and other vegetation, my heart leapt for joy and my buttocks finally unclenched. I can’t recall whether I accidentally fell due to my sea legs or if I actually tried to hug the ground in gratitude for just being there. It didn’t matter. I had made the arduous trip and survived. Would I do it again? You bet, ’cause I’m just that batty.
For more information about this trip and others that Phil Walton offers, contact him at www.unphilteredkayaking.com The trips to the bat cave are just beginning for the spring and summer seasons. Throughout the fall, the leaves are turning, the birds are migrating south and the water is still warm enough to catch sight of a bald eagle from the gorgeous lake.
Phil Walton can be reached via email (phil@unphilteredkayaking.com) or phone (256) 270-3080.
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